COMPOSITION

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What a suit is made of is the basic component of cost or value. The most common suit cloth is made from 100% wool. Suits made of cotton, linen, cashmere, silk are also common. Less expensive suits are often made of polyester or other synthetics. Suit cloth may be a blend of 2 or 3 of these different types of material, which gives the cloth the benefits of each of the blended materials.

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For a classic business suit seek wool or wool/cashmere blends. Cotton, silk, and linen are typically used for warmer months. Corduroy, flannel, and tweed suits are typically for colder weather. 

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FINENESS

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Referred to as a “super” count, the fineness of a cloth determines just how soft and silky it feels. The higher the number, the finer the cloth. The number is essentially a measure of how small and fine the yarn is twisted before it is woven. Most suits range from Super 100’s to Super 200’s.

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The count is not a regulated number and different brands or mills may state a number that may differ from another brand. The finer a cloth, the more expensive it is to mill, and is therefore a contributing factor to cost. For everyday suits, Super 100’s to 130’s is typically best. For shirts, the gold standard is expressed as “100/2” which means a 100 thread count and a double twist.

 

WEIGHT

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The weight of the cloth is expressed in grams or ounces. Most cloth weighs in the 7-12 ounce or 200-350 gram range. The heavier the cloth, the more expensive it is. The weight of the cloth will contribute to how warm the suit is. Summer weights are between 7-8 ounces, all season cloth ranges from 8-12 ounces and 12 ounces and heavier are for colder temperatures.